Technique: Reading Multi-Sized Knitting Patterns

Read Knitting Patterns for Multi-Sized Patterns

If you are planning on knitting a garment, there is a good probability that you will be reading a knitting pattern for multiple sizes. There will be many places in the pattern where you will need to know which number applies to the size you are trying to create. This article will help you to select the correct number.

For an example of a sweater with multiple sizes, check out the detailed explanations of the Woman’s Turtleneck Sweater, available to Bronze members of this site.

The Knitting Pattern Header for Multi-Sized Patterns

The first part that you have to pay attention to is in the header of the knitting pattern. Here is where the pattern designer is telling you which sizes are available.

As a rule, the various sizes are shown as in the following examples, all for 5 different sizes:

  • 32 (34, 36, 38, 40)
  • S (M, L, XL, 2XL)
  • 6 (8, 10, 12, 14)

This form of specifying the sizes tells you that whenever you see a sequence of a number followed by 4 numbers in parentheses, you are looking at a multiple-size statement. If you are making the smallest size, you will use the first number, the one outside the parentheses. If you are making the largest size, then you will use the last number inside the parentheses.

The Instructions in a Multi-Sized Knitting Pattern

An example is the best way of showing what you are looking for.

If the instructions say Cast on 70 (75, 80, 85, 90) sts, then:

  • if you are the smallest size, cast on 70 stitches.
  • if you are the second size, cast on 75 stitches.
  • if you are the third size, cast on 80 stitches.
  • and so on.

The same concept applies at other parts in the pattern. For example:
Dec 1 st at each end of next 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) rows.

Hint: Highlight Your Size in the Knitting Pattern

One hint that will help to make your knitting life go better is to read through your knitting pattern, before you start to knit, looking for every occurrence of the multi-size sequence of numbers. Highlight the one that applies to you. If you are the second-from-the-smallest size, then highlight the first number inside the parentheses.

That’s the basic guide for dealing with multi-size patterns.

But what do the size numbers mean?

That is still the big question.

Because a 40 could mean a 40″ bust. Or it could mean the finished size.

And do S/M/L/XL/2XL mean the same as in ready-to-wear?

If you are fortunate, the pattern writer also includes some other clues as to what the size means.

Some patterns say that the Size refers to the finished size of the garment. Some also include the corresponding bust/chest measurement (if the garment is a sweater). Some patterns will indicate whether the garment is fits loosely or snugly.

But in some cases you are on your own for figuring out what the size number really means.

One method you can use is to take advantage of the gauge specification. But you will need to do a bit of math.

Example:

If the gauge says 20 stitches in 4 inches with Stocking Stitch, and the Back and Front of a Stocking Stitch Sweater each have 100 stitches on the needle just below the armhole shaping, then there are 200 stitches around the chest/bust.

200 stitches is ten 20-stitch chunks, or ten 4-inch chunks, or 40 inches finished size. With the standard of a couple of inches of ease, then if your chest/bust is 38 inches, this will be a comfortable fit. If the sweater is designed to fit snugly, though, it would work with a chest/bust of 42 inches (that’s called “negative ease”).

Sometimes, the pattern calls for a fancy stitch for the garment, but gives the gauge in Stocking Stitch. Usually, if you can knit to gauge in Stocking Stitch, you will be able to work the fancy stitch in the correct tension. But it doesn’t help you determine if the garment will be the correct size. For that, you will have to work a gauge swatch in the fancy stitch, determine how many fancy stitches are in an inch, and then do similar math as described in the previous paragraph.

Now you have enough knowledge to select the correct size in the knitting pattern.

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2 Responses to Technique: Reading Multi-Sized Knitting Patterns

  1. May says:

    Thanks Judy, your explanation instructions very clear and easy to understand, I love your program. I enjoy knitting and crocheting, thank you help.

  2. admin says:

    Thanks so much, May! I love the feedback!

    Judy

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